Get into long range shooting with this rifle build
If you’re ready to get into long-range shooting but feel overwhelmed by choices and price tags, I’ve got you covered. Below is a personally tested, highly recommended parts list that will let you build a complete, affordable, and high performing long-range rifle for plinking, tactical work, and competition. Buy these items, assemble them, and you’ll have a rifle that’s comfortable, accurate, and capable well past 1,000 yards — no tricks, no gimmicks, just one sweet ass rifle.
Estimated total parts cost: ≈ $2,750
I’ll give you the exact parts list, a short explanation of each item, simple build steps, FAQs, and final thoughts so you can buy, bolt it together, and start shooting.
PARTS YOU NEED
• Howa 1500 barreled action — 6.5 Creedmoor, heavy barrel, threaded
• MDT XRS chassis (Howa 1500 short-action inlet)
• 20 MOA Picatinny rail
• Athlon Ares ETR 4.5–30× (MRAD, 34 mm tube, FFP)
• Vortex Precision Matched Rings — Medium height (34 mm tube option)
• Harris S-BRM sling stud bipod (swivel, ~6–9″)
• APA Fat Bastard Gen 4 muzzle brake (6.5 or .308)
Affiliate disclosure: I may earn a small commission if you purchase through the links above — at no extra cost to you.
QUICK OVERVIEW — WHY THESE PARTS WORK
- Howa 1500 (6.5 CM, heavy barrel): reliable barreled action with a crisp trigger and a heavy contour that resists thermal shift and produces consistent groups.
- MDT XRS chassis: rigid aluminum bedding with adjustable length-of-pull and cheek-comb height. Modular, user-friendly, and built for easy tuning and accessory fitment.
- 20 MOA rail: adds usable elevation so you don’t run out of internal scope travel once you push past ~800 yards — essential for extended-range shooting.
- Athlon Ares ETR 4.5–30 (FFP, MRAD): wide zoom range and a first-focal-plane reticle for consistent holds and calculations at any magnification. Excellent value and clarity for long-range work.
- Vortex Precision Matched Rings 34mm (Medium Height): solid, matched ring set that keeps your scope properly seated and repeatable.
- Harris S-BRM bipod: simple, proven, quick to deploy and rock-steady on bench or in the field. Reliable for real-world and competition use.
- APA Fat Bastard Gen 4 Muzzle Brake: very effective at cutting recoil. The Gen-4 design tones down shooter concussion while still reducing recoil by up to 2/3rds.
Tools You'll Need
- Torque wrench (in-lb) — Use this for action screws, scope ring base screws, and ring caps. Always follow the manufacturer torque specs rather than guessing.
- Scope level kit— Use this when mounting your scope and muzzle brake to make sure they’re square.
- Crescent wrench — Handy for timing/threading a muzzle device if you’re doing it yourself.
- Blue Loctite (optional) — Useful on ring cap screws or fasteners you want to stop backing out. Don’t apply it to muzzle threads.
STEP-BY-STEP BUILD — WHAT TO DO, IN ORDER
- Mount the Howa into the MDT XRS Chassis — ensure V-block bedding is seated; torque action screws to MDT torque spec with a torque wrench.
- Install the 20 MOA rail to the action — torque per rail manufacturer spec.
- Attach Harris bipod
- Mount rings and scope
- Thread the APA brake — It comes with very simple instructions
- Go shoot it!
FAQs
Q: Why 6.5 Creedmoor?
A: It’s a sweet spot: mild recoil compared with magnums, excellent long-range ballistics, plentiful factory match ammo, and good barrel life. That combination makes learning faster and producing consistent hits easier.
Q: Do I need a 20 MOA rail?
A: If you regularly plan to shoot past ~800 yards, yes. A 20 MOA rail gives extra usable elevation so you don’t max out your scope’s internal adjustment. If you only shoot inside 600–700 yards it’s not strictly necessary.
Q: Can I use a suppressor instead of a brake?
A: Definitely! Muzzle brakes will give you greater recoil reduction but can be quite loud especially if shooting with others. A suppressor can make for a more enjoyable shooting experience for everyone but you will pay more for a good suppressor.
Q: How much recoil reduction should I expect from the APA Fat Bastard Gen-4?
A: It’s a highly effective brake and will noticeably reduce muzzle rise and felt recoil compared with a bare muzzle. Exact numbers vary by rifle and ammo but I would expect an almost 50% reduction. Expect faster followup shots and more enjoyable shooting with this brake.
Q: Can I swap a different scope or chassis?
A: Absolutely. This list is balanced for performance vs price. Upgrading or changing components is fine, but expect changes in ergonomics, cost, or performance.
Final thoughts
Buy these exact parts, follow the build steps, and you’ll have a practical, no-nonsense long-range rifle ready for plinking, competing, and hunting.
• Howa 1500 barreled action — 6.5 Creedmoor, heavy barrel, threaded
• MDT XRS chassis (Howa 1500 short-action inlet)
• 20 MOA Picatinny rail
• Athlon Ares ETR 4.5–30× (MRAD, 34 mm tube, FFP)
• Vortex Precision Matched Rings — Medium height (34 mm tube option)
• Harris S-BRM sling stud bipod (swivel, ~6–9″)
• APA Fat Bastard Gen 4 muzzle brake (6.5 or .308)
If you are looking for specialized training, feel free to contact us.
Affiliate disclosure: I may earn a small commission if you purchase through the links above — at no extra cost to you.
